I am afraid that it could be the bottom bracket itself. Unfortunately I don't have the tools to tighten it or take it off. If I have the cranks at a certain position and bend them inwards, the clicking is quite noticeable even when not pedaling. I've had a similar clicking experience. Not really varying under different load, nor at a certain position of crank arms. Everyone I asked said to me it was the ball bearings in the bottom bracket. I pulled the BB out, spinned it in my hands, heard all sort of creaking sounds coming out of it - as if it was full of sand.
There are multiple components that can contribute to a clicking or grinding sound in your drive train in addition to the bottom bracket, including the chain, the pedals, the derailleur and the rear hub. That said, the symptoms you describe seem to indicate a problem with the pedal bearings or the bottom bracket. Any of those indicate that you need to service or replace your bottom bracket. That is not a particularly hard task, and if you have been removing or tightening the cranks you likely only need one or two special tools that you may not have.
Replacing or repairing bottom brackets is a common task, so it may be worth it to you to pick those tools up. Here are some bottom bracket service instructions:. Cartridge Type Bottom Bracket Service. Cup and Cone Bottom Bracket Service. The clicking could be coming from where the pedal joins the crank-arm with the noise sounding as pressure is placed on the pedal at the top of the stroke.
I've had this before, tightened the pedal slightly and no more clicking. Similarly, I was never able to generate the correct forces to make it click unless I was on the bike riding. I recently spent a week trying to figure out where my creaking noise was coming from. I could feel as well as hear it and I was convinced it was coming from the drive train same rhythm as pedal stroke. After tightening crank bolts, removing cranks, cleaning and greasing and doing the same with the pedals, oiling the chain adjusting both derailleurs.
I finally realised that the noise was quieter when I stood up. Checked the seat post clamp only to find that it wasn't very tight. Nipped it up and went out to test it I had a similar noise coming from what I thought was the cranks or the chainset. After taking it all apart, re-greasing it all and also replacing the bottom bracket the noise persisted to my frustration. It turns out that although tight enough to hold the wheel in place, the rear quick release was not tight enough.
Hey presto, once I tightened the QR the noise was gone! Good luck to anyone else who has a similar problem! I have had the same noise and discovered the problem and here is the solution. The left crank arm does NOT fit perfectly in the axle and the axle does not on the bearing. To have a perfect fit I put same plastic pieces between the bearing and the axle. Push them once the the left arm is in place before the washer whit the star hole. The axle has 10 holes. This puts pressure between every cracking part and the sound has disappeared.
There is a certain torque required on bottom bracket itself into the frame and also on the crank bolt if it is solid axel type. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group.
This one is easy to diagnose: creaks when pedaling seated, then stops when coasting: get up and do your best Mark Cavendish sprint.
If the creak disappears when standing, it is time for a seat post cleaning and reinstall of the post and saddle. I have never found an easy solution for suspension pivots creaking. A modern mountain bike can have 8 or more bearing seats and all of them are suspect. I would leave this job for when you have eliminated everything else, then overhaul the whole lot of them. When literally everything else has failed, I have seen aluminum bottom bracket inserts in carbon frames come loose.
The frame looks normal, but the bond between the aluminum insert and carbon frame is weakened or broken. There is no solution except calling the manufacturer for a warranty or crash replacement.
The follow up article, which can be found here , explains a logical work flow to allocate and fix a creak. Morgan Blue's Aqua Proof Paste has been our number one creak solution. It's a magic goop that will silence parts and hold its consistency for years. After doing a quick reinstall of the bottom bracket with a dab of Morgan Blue Aqua Proof paste, here is a list of things that sound remarkably similar: chain ring bolts There are four or five bolts in a traditional chain ring mount, if one of them is loose, it will creak with every pedal stroke.
Reinstall all bolts and grease them with Aqua Proof pedal spindles Any mechanic worth your time will install pedals with some form of anti seize. Do not remove this little guy??? Sometimes it is OK to not follow the manufacturer's instruction. As for a bottom bracket , on the low end, maybe miles. But sometimes you get unlucky and get a bottom bracket that lasts maybe miles. A clicking noise often comes from your chain wanting to jump up or down a gear on the rear cassette.
This can typically be fixed by adjusting the tension of the cable that runs from your shifter to your rear derailleur. The clicking could be caused by a bent derailleur hanger. Though some shops may do the install for free or for a reduced fee if you buy the parts from them.
There are multiple components that can contribute to a clicking or grinding sound in your drive train in addition to the bottom bracket , including the chain, the pedals, the derailleur and the rear hub. That said, the symptoms you describe seem to indicate a problem with the pedal bearings or the bottom bracket. Loose spokes are prone to break, and also often result from rim damage. Drop a pedal all the way down and apply some lateral side force with your foot, then repeat on other side.
This will often reveal the noise if BB cup is loose. WD doesn't really lubricate much of anything. It's actually a de-greaser, so it will remove any lubricant from bicycle chains , cables and other pivot joints. If you 're cleaning your chain for re-lubrication purposes with a product other than WD , then WD will be fine to use.
Spin the crank while holding the bike with one hand. If you feel an obvious rumbling or grinding feeling, the bearing are wore out and the unit should be replaced. Very worn bottom brackets will actually make a grinding noise. The most common cause of creaking is the crank being loose on the spindle. Remove the crank bolts, lubricate the threads and under the bolt head, and reinstall. Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer recommended torque.
Use a torque wrench if possible. I ride about 3,, miles a year and my rule of thumb is to do the hubs every - miles or so, and the bottom bracket twice a year. For the bottom bracket and most bicycle components , generally it is just a multi-purpose bicycle grease , on bottom brackets anti-seize should be used if it is a titanium frame or mismatched metal that are known to seize or bond to one another, but can be used in other frames as well.
The bottom bracket on a bicycle connects the crankset chainset to the bicycle and allows the crankset to rotate freely.
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